SENKU-SHA
[TRAILBLAZER]
A
Tribute
to
the
First
Woman
on
the
Eiger's
Japanese
Direttissima

09/25

A climber wearing Mammut gear and a helmet smiles while scaling a rocky mountain, secured with ropes and protective gloves.

@Dominik Hodel

Dominik Hodel

Julia Rau

In 1969, a Japanese climbing team made history by opening the most direct route up the Eiger north face. It was one of the toughest climbs of its time. Among the team of six, was Michiko Imai, who became the first woman to summit the Eiger via this line. At a time when women in Switzerland still couldn’t vote, her role on that wall was quietly radical – like a real trailblazer.

Route: JAPANESE DIRETTISSIMA​ 

First ascent: 15 July –15 August 1969 

Rope team: Takio and Yasuo Kato, Satoru Nigishi, Amano Hirofumi, Susumu Kubo, Michiko Imai 

Grade: 6 A2. 1800m. 

In July 1969, a Japanese expedition team completed the first ascent of the most direct route up the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland: The so-called Japanese Direttissima. Known for its extreme exposure and technical difficulty, the Eiger had long challenged the world’s best climbers. This new line demanded absolute precision, endurance, and commitment. 

Among the six climbers was Michiko Imai, who became the first woman to summit the Eiger via this route. At a time when women in Switzerland still didn’t have the right to vote, Michiko’s role on that wall was nothing short of revolutionary. She didn’t seek the spotlight, but her strength and quiet defiance made the medical doctor a pioneer in every sense. 

More than five decades later, we invited Michiko back to the Eiger. At 83, she stood once again in the middle of the face that shaped her story – sharing stories, reflections, and the spirit of an expedition that continues to inspire. Among those deeply moved by her achievement was Nigel Cabourn, whose fascination with her story helped shape this collection.  

Meet the woman who inspired it all
Michiko Imai and Nigel Cabourn looking at a photo from 1969 when Michiko was climbing the Direttissima.
Michiko Imai points at a signed climbing helmet displayed in a glass case at a mountaineering museum exhibit.
Smiling climber in Mammut winter gear stands on snowy mountain, raising one arm joyfully beside a rugged rocky cliff.

“The
1969
Japanese
Direttissima
expedition
is
a
story
I’ve
researched
for
many
years.
This
makes
the
collection
truly
special
and
an
authentic
tribute
to
the
remarkable
achievement
of
the
climbing
team
and
its
deep
connection
to
the
Eiger.”

Nigel CabournFASHION DESIGNER
A climber wearing Mammut gear and a helmet smiles while scaling a rocky mountain, secured with ropes and protective gloves.
RichImage 2

As part of the project, we recreated one of the most iconic images from the 1969 first ascent: Michiko suspended on a rope high on the Eiger’s north face. This time, the moment is reimagined with Japanese athlete Yuka Kobayashi, wearing the Nigel Cabourn collection.  

The result is a powerful fusion of past and present, honoring a historic ascent while showcasing contemporary design through the eyes of one of Britain’s most respected designers. 

“I
became
fascinated
by
the
Eiger’s
history,
especially
the
unique
1969
Japanese
expedition
led
in
part
by
a
woman,
Michiko
Imai.
Their
expedition
approach
and
the
kit
they
were
using,
often
homemade
or
from
the
farming
community
back
in
Japan."

Paul CosgroveCHIEF PRODUCT OFFICER, MAMMUT

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