How to Choose Crampons
04/25
Ice climbing and snowy alpine tours promise plenty of adrenaline, breathtaking views and, above all, unforgettable adventures. To successfully master the icy challenge, the right equipment is key. Crampons are indispensable companions to provide that crucial grip on slippery surfaces. But which model is the right one? What are the differences between the various types and what features are important? We’ve got all the information you need!
What are crampons and when do you need them?
Crampons are metal devices with sharp points. They attach to mountaineering boots to provide extra grip on icy and snow-covered surfaces. Made of robust steel, sometimes combined with aluminum in a hybrid construction, they are the ideal choice for demanding tours. Using crampons is a must if:
you go on glacier hikes or alpine tours across a snow-covered section.
you climb in areas that are covered (at least partly) by a layer of ice.
you are navigating treacherous icy conditions during a tour.
Crampon types at a glance
Strap-on crampons
With this type of binding, the crampons are attached to the boot using plastic straps or cups that are stretched over the boot, then fastened. They enclose both the toes and the heel, ensuring a firm hold. Strap-on crampons are particularly suitable for mountaineering boots with flex index B1, i.e. the soles are firm and rigid, but have no hard edges.
Hybrid crampons
Hybrid crampons are attached via plastic strap on the front, and a metal bracket and lever at the heel. Engaging the rocker lever ensures a firm connection between shoe and crampon. Super important: Your shoes – ideally with flex index B2 – need to be compatible with crampons so that the fastening system properly grips onto the hard edge in the heel area.
Automatic crampons
If you’ve got a particularly demanding tour planned, automatic – or step-in – crampons are the way to go. The tip of the shoe is firmly enclosed by a metal bar, with a lever in the heel area for fastening – similar to a ski boot. Their distinguishing feature are the sharp points at the front, which dig into the ice and provide the necessary grip while climbing. As such, they not only give you the highest level of stability, but also provide maximum safety on your adventures. Important to note: Step-in crampons are generally compatible with flex index B3.
Which shoes are compatible with which crampons?
Before you go out and buy crampons for your next big mountain adventure, you should always consider whether you actually have the right footwear to match. Depending on the terrain and the type of binding needed, you’ve got a number of options to choose from:
Partly crampon-compatible shoes: Lightweight mountaineering boots with a flex index of B1Â or shoes with flex index B2Â are the perfect choice for hybrid crampons. Despite their grippy tread, their shaft is significantly softer.
Fully crampon-compatible shoes: Extremely robust footwear, such as mountaineering boots with a flex index of B3Â , are ideal for this. They are characterized by their very sturdy construction, a high shaft, and protruding soles at the front and back to fasten automatic or step-in crampons.
Anti-balling plates for extra stability & comfort
Anti-balling plates are flexible inserts which are attached under the crampons. Their job: Preventing snow from clumping under the crampons, which would reduce traction. By using anti-balling plates you’ll ensure there’ll be even traction throughout, including a significantly reduced risk of slipping – making them a key piece of equipment for challenging routes. Moreover, anti-balling plates improve walking comfort, as the snow can’t stick to the crampons, which otherwise would add extra weight to your shoes.
The right crampons for every tour
Winter walks & easy mountain or glacier tours
Because of their versatility and compatibility with a wide variety of shoe types, strap-on crampons are the ideal choice for these types of outdoor activity. Thanks to the flexibility of the material, they are particularly suitable for tours where they’ll only briefly come into contact with ice. They are also very lightweight, making them not only comfortable to wear, but easy to carry around during the tour.
Alpine tours for advanced climbers & tours covering both rock and ice
If you’ve got a challenging tour planned that features steep sections as well as rocky and icy passages, hybrid crampons are your best friend. Opt for durable steel models with twelve points – these are particularly robust, and will ensure your safe ascent and descent in rough terrain.
Ice climbing & very demanding routes
When maximum precision and stability are needed, step-in crampons truly shine. Made out of durable steel and fitted with up to 14 points, they’ll ensure the best possible performance – even in the most challenging conditions, including extremely steep terrain or technical climbing on ice.
3 tips for walking correctly with crampons
Preparation is everything: Before your tour, make sure to check that your crampons properly connect to your shoes. Also ensure that the crampons are firmly and correctly attached to your shoes to prevent slipping.
One step at a time: Depending on the terrain, move forward in slightly wider steps (roughly hip’s width). Distribute your weight evenly on the points to ensure a secure grip on ice and snow. Especially when traversing (crossing), avoid walking on only one vertical row of points!
Upright posture: Keep your upper body as upright as possible to improve stability, and reduce the strain on your legs. Also make sure that your knees are slightly bent.
Transporting and maintaining crampons – here's how!
When transporting crampons, make sure they are stowed in a special crampon bag to cover the sharp points – which will go a long way in preventing damage to your equipment, as well as unpleasant injuries. Also attach the crampon covers in such a way that other items inside your backpack won’t accidentally get damaged.
Also: Don’t forget to show your trusted companions some much-needed TLC: Remove all dirt from your crampons after every use, then store them in a dry place. Plus, regularly check for damages to make sure they are in perfect condition whenever you need them. If you’re always on the move, don’t forget to sharpen the points regularly to ensure perfect grip. Caution: Avoid using electric grinders, as the heat they generate can damage the metal structure. Instead, use a flat metal file to sharpen the points.
Crampons vs. micro crampons (micro spikes): What's the difference?
Although crampons and micro crampons are both vital equipment for safely climbing in difficult terrain, they have very different characteristics. While crampons usually come with ten to twelve points, micro spikes only have four to six points, which is why they are also known as half crampons. This makes micro spikes more lightweight, and the perfect choice if you’re looking for a secure grip in less demanding terrain. When navigating extremely steep and icy terrain, however, crampons are the more durable choice. Another key difference: Crampons require specific footwear, while micro spikes do not.
Time to explore the great outdoors!
Got your next glacier tour all lined up? With our tips for choosing the right crampons, you’re ready to conquer even the most challenging terrain. Or check out our guide on how to choose the right hiking boots to find out what you need to watch out for, including our lowdown of the flex index. And if you’d like to know what else you should bring on a tour, our handy backpacking gear checklist is here to help.
