What are Quickdraws? – Climbing guide
04/25
Quickdraws are the ultimate climbing essential, serving as a vital connector between you, your climbing harness and the crag. So whatever part of the great vertical outdoors you’re exploring, you need to be able to rely on your equipment at all times – and know how to use it correctly. In this guide, we’ll tell you what exactly quickdraws are, how and when to use them, and how to choose the right ones for your needs.
What are quickdraws?
Quickdraws , also known as extenders, are an essential piece of equipment for any climber, allowing you to safely clip your rope into fixed protection devices or anchors along your route. Quickdraws consist of two carabiners connected by a semi-rigid sling . One carabiner is for the climbing rope , the other for connecting to an anchoring device. This not only ensures a safe hold, but the extra space also prevents the carabiners from twisting, which is key to avoiding excessive transverse loads. Quickdraws are usually used for sport and multi-pitch climbing.
Types of quickdraws
Quickdraws usually come with both a bent gate carabiner and a straight gate carabiner. The bent gate is usually used for the rope, as it is particularly easy to clip in and out. The straight gate, meanwhile, is used for connecting to the protection devices in the wall.
If your quickdraw comes with straight gates on either side, you can usually tell from the position of the integrated rope fixture which side is meant for the rope. This type of fixture is found on the rope-side carabiner to make sure it won’t move around the sling and slip to the side. To make it even easier to distinguish between the two carabiners,, they often come in different colors.
A mixed quickdraw gives you two types of carabiner gate types: keylock and wire . The Keylock gate is used as a crag carabiner, the wire gate as a rope carabiner.
What materials are quickdraws made of?
The sling of your quickdraw can either be polyamide (nylon) or polyethylene (Dyneema):
Nylon slings are easily recognizable because they are wider, heavier and usually colored. They are more resistant to UV rays, making them much sturdier. For additional protection and grip, you can use a quickdraw protector – which also helps reduce the clattering noise that comes with touching the wall or crag.
Dyneema slings are made of very smooth fibre, which makes it much harder to dye them – as such, their colors are generally not as bright or saturated. They are also much thinner than nylon slings and more light-weight. Although they’re much less resistant to UV rays and abrasion, they are a particularly great choice for experienced climbers who keep an eye on every extra gram.
How many quickdraws do I need?
A set of 15 quickdraws is usually all you need to be properly kitted out for your next adventure. The majority should be standard length (quickdraws fom 10-15 cm ), while 2-5 should be slightly longer (quickdraws from 17 cm ). That being said: It never hurts to have a couple of extra quickdraws at the ready.
Make sure to plan your climb well in advance, and pack enough quickdraws to suit your chosen route. Also: Don’t forget to take some extra quickdraws for changes during multi-pitch climbing, depending on the anchor point you’re planning to build. Preferably, you should choose quickdraws with a wide gate so you can comfortably fit even thick double ropes. When ice climbing, wire gates are the ideal choice, as they’re less likely to freeze shut.
How to clip quickdraws
When clipping quickdraws, there are a couple of important rules you need to keep in mind:
Rope side and crag side: The bent gate is meant for the rope, the straight gate for the wall. This prevents the carbiner from twisting, reducing the risk of excessive transversal loads.
Clipping orientation: When clipping your crag carabiner, make sure the gate of the carabiner faces away from the crag. This minimizes the risk of the carabiner accidentally opening.
Clipping the rope: Thread the rope front to back through the rope-side carabiner to prevent the rope from slipping while climbing.
How long can I use quickdraws?
Like most climbing gear, your quickdraws should also be replaced at regular intervals. As their durability is mainly determined by how frequently you use them, and how you store them when they’re not in use, there’s no generally defined timeframe. Ideally, quickdraws should be kept in a dark, cool and dry place, out of reach of sunlight and chemicals. Plus, make sure to protect them against mechanical damage caused by sharp ends and edges.
So always keep an eye out for possible signs of wear and tear. If the carabiner has nicks and notches, the gate doesn’t lock properly anymore, if there are loose threads coming off the sling or the sling is showing cuts and/or signs of melting, it’s definitely time for a replacement. Generally, you should aim to replace slings after 7 to 10 years, as the material will get more and more porous with age, regardless of usage – which obviously is sped up drastically when exposed to challenging weather conditions. Always make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions – and replace your quickdraws sooner rather than later if you’re not sure.
Now that you’re up to speed with everything you need to know about quickdraws, you’re all set for picking out the right ones for your next outdoor adventure. Want to know more about the ins and outs of climbing? Then just head over to our Mammut Stories and Guides to find out more about climbing ropes , slings , and more.
